As I'd been hoping, on day four the Tanakas took me to nearby Nara, a city which houses what are possibly the two most awe-inspiring monuments in all of Japan. Today's entry covers the first of these, and features so many pictures that I've pretty much given up on writing anything but captions. Enjoy the photos, and I'll rejoin you for a tour of monument #2 in the next entry.

Nara, like everywhere else we've gone, is crowded beyond belief. You might not even notice the massive gate that straddles the road to Todai-ji.

Here's a closer look. If you peer through the gates, you can catch a glimpse of our destination ahead.

Our very, very large destination.

It's common knowledge to the Japanese, but I was amazed to discover that deer are more plentiful than pigeons in Nara. Pigeons generally don't head-butt you if you don't feed them, though.

So, the cool thing is, the deer let you get really close, which makes pictures like this ridiculously easy to get. National Geographic still hasn't called.

Why hello there, littleAAAAAAAAAHGETITOFFME!

Buddhist temples are generally laid out like compounds, with a large gated perimeter enclosing the main buildings. The first gate being largely symbolic, this is Todai-ji's impressive outer gate.

It's guarded by the two most famous wooden statues in Japan, if not the world, the Ni-o, or "benevolent kings." These date back to 1203, and feature a level of detail almost unheard of among giant statuary. Originally Hindu gods, they were incorporated into Buddhism as twin protectors of the Buddha. This is the one on the left. I'd swear these statues exhibit hints of a Greek influence.

Meanwhile, on the Klingon homeworld...
Amazing, isn't it? Not only is Todai temple the largest wooden structure on Earth, but this Edo-era reconstruction is only 2/3 of the temple's original size!

I just could not stop taking photos of it.

And here he is! The largest Buddha in Japan! Woo! Notice that the light is coming from behind and reflecting off all the gold offerings at his feet. This prevents your eyes from adjusting to the darkness, and ensures that the Daibutsu remains a shadowy, imposing figure to all who behold him.

His head was knocked off by an earthquake in 855, but he still looks pretty serene.

Sure, but everyone takes photos of the Buddha. I decided to wander around and see what else this temple was showcasing.

Stay back! He's got a paintbrush!

Nearby, this miniature model of the pagoda-happy Todai-ji of yesteryear. The leftmost building is the one we're inside now.

I am such a film-school geek.

Last but not least, the nostril. See, the hole at the base of this pillar represents the Buddha's nostril. (No, I'm not making that up. Why would I make that up?) It's believed that if you can pass through the Buddha's nostril, you'll get... Well, here's where the legend kinda breaks down. I've heard everything from "good luck" to "instant enlightenment" to "a place in heaven." Let's just assume you'll get something good. I didn't attempt it, sadly, as I felt weird about standing in line with a bunch of ten-year-olds. But that kid in the picture looks totally enlightened.

Finally, we headed out, through the crowds and the incense, into the cold light of day.